Valerie Goes to Thailand

Friday, 23 July 2010

Following Michael Pollan: An Omnivore's Haven in Nakhon Phanom



I've always been a fan of Michael Pollan's work, ever since reading "The Omnivore's Dilemma" and its inevitable transformation of my perspectives on food, health, and responsible eating operating in the scientific, political, moral, and socio-cultural realms. I found "In Defense of Food," the sequel to his initial work, at a friendly book stall in Bangkok's Chinatown neighborhood, selling for a price I could actually afford. The deal was too good to pass up, and the temptation to add variety to my current reading collection too great.

About a week and 200 pages later, (and about 30 pages worth of references- Pollan did his research) I realized that during my time here in Thailand, I had been performing all the food algorithms Pollan suggests in order to practice a sustainable way of eating as a part of a community and a resident being of this earth. The food culture in rural Thailand (I cannot say the same for Bangkok, where it is starting to desperately mirror a Western way of living, but that's another pedantic entry reserved for later) starkly contrasts the Western way of eating and living in so many dimensions, and the people here are in the better for it.

(A brief interjection: I am mindful of the stream of implications when I say "Western." By this, I mean an American way of living and its cultural exports. I am mindful also, that the "West" is not one giant cultural monolith-- it is a brief generalization for the sake of convenience.)

Living in Nakhon Phanom made me realize just how incredibly antiseptic life can be in America, and often to our detriment. Sometimes our food can be so incredibly processed by industry, that our relationship with nature gets lost, well, in the process. Here in Nakhon Phanom, the chicken you may be eating might easily be the one that woke you up that morning. Fresh meat and produce alight local open air markets. They don't travel very far to avoid the expense of refridgerated trucks. This inconvenience might easily be overcome in America, but for the locals, this is actually an advantage--products are bought locally, so the communities support each other, carbon footprints are reduced, and best of all, the food is absolutely fresh and their nutrients kept intact. Processed foods lie hidden in the backstage. Consumers here have a much closer relationship with nature; they are accountable to their land and are therefore responsible eaters.

Pollan explains that the longer food takes to prepare, the healthier it is. Here in rural Thailand, the production and consumption of food can easily become the centerpiece of every day. At my school, the students collectively prepare the food for lunch long before the first period starts. Because they don't have the same conveniences Americans enjoy (I haven't seen a microwave in a long time) every thing becomes a labor a love, to be savored by every one during the meal. I understand that modern conveniences are created for many purposes; I don't want to end up indicting the Western civilization. I just wanted to emphasize how enviable that locals here put such emphasis on meals. They might live simpler and more modest lives, but when it comes to gathering and eating, the meal isn't one more chore one has to fulfill. Food might be more scarce, but every mouthful is important. A good meal constitutes good company, family, congregation, and a close affiliation with nature. Concomitantly, good health follows good meals. What I've realized is, without all the convenience and glamour of Western technology, people here take better care of their health, and the earth.

In keeping with this philosophy (although the practice preceded the realization) my vegetarian roommate and I prepare our dinners every night from scratch. If we make black bean burgers, the beans are soaked overnight, boiled for hours the next day, mushed by a fork and driven by willpower, handpattied, and fried. Whew. But man, the first bite, dissolves all the bad things in the world and suddenly Republicans no longer exist. After eating like this for several months, I feel physically stronger. More importantly though, it gave me an incredible appreciation for good and real food and all the cooks in the world who subscribe to a real food philosophy. Bon Appetit.

Well, I have now made myself incredibly hungry and will saunter down to the kitchen. This week, school has been cancelled for me so my friends and I are going to Vientiane, Vang Vieng and Luang Prabang in Laos. Have a wonderful week everyone!

Monday, 19 July 2010

My Favorite Thai Tradition: String Tying


It's been two weeks since my mom arrived in Bangkok and greeted Thailand's hot, humid air out of the airport. I regret not having blogged about her visit much earlier, but things here have been so busy, and school lately has been exhausting. Needless to say, spending time with my mom at school and traveling with her has been a blast!

After our prolonged bus ride from Bangkok, my mom, Trish, and I arrived at Ban Thai Samakee travel weary. Unfortunately, we could not forgo attending school that day because (unbeknown to her at the time) I had arranged a surprise for my mom. My favorite Thai tradition happens to be the string tying ceremony, performed when a person is either arriving or leaving. It is a warm extension of hospitality and endless wishes of good fortune. During the beginning of my service, a particular string ceremony allayed by initial fears as a volunteer. I felt the incredible grace and hospitality of Thais extinguish my anxieties away. I wanted my mom to experience this ceremony, where strangers literally reach out for your hand in order to welcome you to their community.

So that Monday, around 4 pm, an hour later when the celebration was supposed to start, the person appointed to initiate the ceremony arrives (Thai-style) in his motorcycle and immediately everyone gathers around me, my mom and Trish. Teachers and directors from both of my schools and Trisha's schools attend and 15 minutes into the ceremony we are all kneeling, huddled close, and following the initiator's chants. Occasionally, breaks of humor ensued, keeping the atmosphere light-hearted and warm.

Then, one by one, all the teachers, directors and even students, accompanied by even more unfamiliar individuals, proceed to grab string from the ceremony's centerpiece (called Bai Si). My mom and I hold sticky rice and a boiled egg on one hand while each and everyone tie a string around our wrist and wish us welcome. By the end of the ceremony, our wrists are bound by perpetual luck (handsome husbands looming in our future! Dad: this must mean that you will age very gracefully) and hospitality. We are bound, by a generations-old cultural tradition, that makes our inextricable ties to each other tangible. I always feel a transcendent kind of energy whenever and wherever this practice is performed, whether it be in a temple, or spontaneously by a group of old, betel chewing women.

Here are some pictures from this wonderful event:




Following the culture's love for congregation and eating, we all feasted on delicious Thai food to close the day.

Sunday, 18 July 2010

Letter to Prospective Volunteers, with Regards to the Protests in Bangkok

Dear prospective volunteers and parents,

My name is Valerie Lopez and I am currently a WorldTeach Thailand volunteer. I am writing to corroborate my Thailand Field Director's letter which affirms the safety of WorldTeach Thailand volunteers in Nakhon Phanom.

First of all, I wanted to reiterate that our program follows a very specific evacuation protocol should our safeties be compromised-- a testament to WorldTeach's commitment to its volunteers. When the initial instances of violence in Bangkok began to ensue, Nell swiftly reminded us of this protocol and outlined an emergency evacuation plan should the need arise. Throughout the national crisis, Nell gave us the latest precautions from the US embassy and news updates from Bangkok.

Bangkok did bear its national turmoil in its own streets. One cannot miss the heartbreaking photographs plastered all over the newspapers around the world. Even The Economist predicted an imminent civil war in Thailand's political horizon. It is then very easy to assume that the dangers in Bangkok are representative of all civilian circumstances in Thailand. However, I (and the other volunteers can attest), that while Bangkok might have been perilous, Nakhon Phanom couldn't have been more different.

I was only aware of the violence in Bangkok through my teachers' snippets of conversation, and ironically enough, through international news sources online. Life here continued to be quite peaceful and the possibilities of danger remained on the fringes. If I had not paid attention to the media at all I would have had no idea of the violent confrontations between the Red Shirts protestors and the government. Here, we are surrounded by an incredible local community full of extremely generous and kind individuals.

I wanted to reach out to all prospective volunteers and their parents who may be dismayed, distraught, and discouraged from committing to the program. More than ever, Thailand needs your help. If anything, the protests, among other factors, arose out of the socio-economic gap between the impoverished communities of Thailand, and the ruling, privileged class. Education can be an incredibly democratizing force. The possible work of future volunteers here, have bearing on the empowering forces of education.

I will be more than happy to answer your questions over email. Please feel free to contact me at valerie.r.lopez@gmail.com.

Sincerely Yours,
Valerie Lopez, WorldTeach Thailand '09

Thursday, 1 July 2010

Class Photos #1

Na Bpong- Grade 5 and 6
Na Bpong - Grade 3 and 4, everyday hugs
Grade 3, 4

Na Bpong - Grade 1 and 2









photos courtesy of my mom and her nice camera

Watch my WAKA WAKA WorldTeach Thailand Video